Angkor

Another hot, sweltering day in Cambodia. I spent six hours at the temples today, and the size and scale of these things are just obscene. Angkor Wat is the name of the largest temple, but the name is also used to refer to the complex of around 70 or so other temples built in the area. Each one of the temples are worthy of being a tourist attraction in their own right--the problem is that even medium sized ones are simply dwarfed by the giants and heavy hitters of the field, like Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom.

Other than the weather, the problem with Angkor Wat is that temple fatigue can set in early. After you've seen the biggest and most spectacular ones, its kind of hard to get excited about seemingly minor ones that actually aren't that minor. When you are exploring the various temples, there are literally only two thoughts in your head: i can't believe what I'm actually seeing/holy..., and it is really hot outside.

Because this is the dry season, it also happens to be low season for tourism. Why? Because many of the temples were built surrounded by water filled moats that often dry up in the dry season. That said, if this is low season in terms of tourism, I'd hate to be here in the high season. As expected, the temples are swarming with tourists as it is. I can't imagine there being twice as many people here and having to elbow your way through--well, actually, I can. Last night after visiting one of the earlier complexes recommended by lonely planet that were okay compared to some of the other ones I saw, I went to climb a temple to see the sunset. Of course, everybody else was trying to do that as well, which meant it got a little tight at times (although nothing could compare to Bromo, when people were basically shoving their way past others to get the perfect shot).

Also, even though we are tourists, it is important that we remember that these sites are considered to be sacred by the locals, and we should probably treat them as such. Meaning: if you wouldn't do something in your place of worship or sacred place, then you probably shouldn't do it here. I know its hot, and most of us look like we've just entered into a wet tshirt contest, but that's why we have water bottles and towels. There's no excuse for taking your shirt off at a holy site. Yes, I'm referring to you, Mr. older European tourist. I nor anybody else watching the sunset needed to see your man boobs.

Last night, in going to the overlook site, I saw Angkor Wat for the very first time. It was one of those things that started out with a whimper, but ended with a bang. The main road drives around the moat, and all you can see from the side is a long wall hidden by some trees. Then as you turn the corner, you see the bridge, and then Angkor comes at you like a sledgehammer. My jaw dropped. It's that spectacular.

The scale of the place is unimaginable until you've actually seen it. It's simply gigantic, both in terms of area and in height. Its amazing to think that the temple was generally constructed entirely by hand, with no machine use whatsoever. Angkor is just one single solid temple.

Angkor Thom isn't as well-known (it's number 2), but it is also spectacular, with a much wider variety of carvings and temples. It's not as physically big, but what makes it worth visiting are the various faces carved into the decently sized temple of Baphoun (or Bayon), and the elephant and leper king terraces, with long and detailed reliefs carved into them.

My favorite by far was Ta Prohm because it actually looks like how a "ruin" should be--it has giant tree roots literally on top of the walls and tearing parts of the temple apart. I wish I could go into way more detail about these places, but the best way to describe it is jaw dropping.

Furthermore, unlike Borobodur and Prambanan, the landscaping choice made by the Cambodian government still gives it a hint of feeling like the temples are hidden in the jungle, even though paved roads wind throughout the area. Walking into Borobodur and Prambanan feels like you are walking onto the golf course of a five star resort. Riding into Angkor Wat feels like you are entering a national park, surrounded by giant trees and lots of vegetation.

How have I been going about? By motorized trishaw--you can hire them for 15 bucks a day, and they take you anywhere, but I feel like in my case I'm kind of getting ripped off. My driver is the hotel manager's brother, and the best way to describe him would be the character/waiter Damon Wayans plays in Beverly Hills Cop--he has a bit part as a waiter offering Eddie Murphy some fruit. My driver is a dead ringer for the character.

The problem is that my driver is also kind of lazy. Yes, I know it's hot out, but you aren't the one out in the sun exploring temples with a tweaked knee (probably the product of sleeping in the airport). You're cat napping in the shade with the tuk-tuk. Since Cambodia is somewhat of a reserved culture, flipping out on the guy isn't going to do me any good. Basically, at 2pm, I wanted to continue to do some exploring, but he wanted to go back to town. I really didn't have much of a choice in the matter, though.

I do have a choice tmw., though, and some of the places I would like to go to are considerably farther out and would probably require a car and driver to get there.

The place I am staying in is kind of nice, but its also kind of quiet, and I'd like to be in a more social environment. I also know that I can get a similar room for a similar price elsewhere, if not cheaper (like across the street), so I'm going to do some research after I get done. I'm paying 13 bucks for a double room with a hot and cold shower and air conditioning--about par for the course--and the room is cleaned every day. That said, they also charged me 11 bucks for laundry, when I should have just gone outside and walked five yards and given it to any number of places advertising $1/1 kilo of laundry. You really don't have to spend much to get a decent room here (in contrast, the hostel I looked into staying at charged 8 bucks for a bed in a dorm with a/c and shower, but its also more of a party hostel)--which is why I find the number of 4 star and 5 star hotels in the area to be pretty funny.

Note to all recovering alcoholics: do not visit Cambodia, because good, cheap booze is everywhere. A standard draft of the national beer, called Angkor, or of any of the various regional beers (ie Tiger, Chang) will set you back a grand total of 50 cents. A fifth of Johnnie Walker Red is 12.50 USD. Buy one get one free deals are all over the place.

In terms of money, they have a bizarre system where they use US Dollars for anything and everything over one dollar, but Cambodian riel for anything under a dollar--meaning that if you buy something that costs fifty cents and give them a buck, you will get 2,000 Cambodian riel back. Riel, btw, is worthless outside of Cambodia--you literally cannot exchange it at any place outside the border.

I was also offered coke for the first time in my life, and marijuana several times. I didn't stick around long enough to determine whether it was of the Atlanta-brewed and medicinal variety or of the other kind. I was on a well-lit street frequented by other westerners when it occurred, literally 10 steps from the main restaurant area of Siem Reap, and promptly picked up my pace . Needless to say, I have no desire to experience what the Cambodian justice system is like firsthand.

Cambodian kids can be ridiculous. Their parents have figured out that tourists are more likely to buy from children than adults, so they pester you once you are at all the temple sites. They've also memorized the various cities in several countries. When one asked me if I was from Canada, I said yes, just to play along. The girl proceeded to spout off "Canada. Capital: Ottawa. Main cities: Vancouver, Calgary, Edmonton, Winnipeg, Toronto, Montreal....etc for about 15 more names." When I told her I was from the U.S., Texas, she said "oh, texas, capital Austin, main cities...." It was like I was talking to a robot.

What is sad is that some of these kids can speak certain phrases with nary an accent, those phrases being "cold drink one dollar no problem" "you want tshirt 1 dollar, history book" "please mister buy cold drink for your driver, etc." It would be funny if it wasn't so blatantly tout-like.